{"id":5424,"date":"2012-12-22T06:51:17","date_gmt":"2012-12-22T06:51:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/arhiv.svetovno.si\/?p=5424"},"modified":"2012-12-22T06:51:17","modified_gmt":"2012-12-22T06:51:17","slug":"ob-mekongu-navzdol-part-2-motoristov-dnevnik","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/?p=5424","title":{"rendered":"Ob Mekongu navzdol, part 2: \u00bbMotoristov dnevnik\u00ab"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ju\u017eni del Laosa je razvle\u010den vzdol\u017e reke Mekong na eni strani, in hribi, ki mejijo na Vietnam, na drugi. Vmes je svet relativno nizek in bistveno bolj raven kot na severu. Ta del Laosa se zdi tudi bolj poseljen, in vzdol\u017e glavne magistralke, ki se ob Mekongu vije dol proti jugu, je nanizanih cel kup ve\u010djih krajev in \u00bbstaromodnih\u00ab mest, kot so Tha Khek, Savannakhet in Pakse. Ko smo se enkrat privlekli do mesta <strong>Pakse<\/strong>, sva se z Ireno odlo\u010dila, da je treba spet mal v notranjost dr\u017eave pogledat, stran od mno\u017eic in gostega prometa, \u010deprav se v Laosu nikoli ne po\u010duti\u0161 resno utesnjenega (Farokh je v tej to\u010dki spizdil naprej proti Kambod\u017ei).<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"480\" height=\"400\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" marginheight=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Kong+Lor+Cave,+Khammouane,+Laos&amp;daddr=Thakh%C3%A8k,+Khammouane,+Laos+to:Savannakhet,+Laos+to:Pakse,+Champassack,+Laos&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FcL-EQEdM4Y-BiG4pts60Nl4gSkZ2QV-BsQ7MTG4pts60Nl4gQ%3BFSWqCQEdjps_BimdCQjrvAg8MTHCe8zJGKAwpg%3BFROy_AAd-k8-BilTk13m4MU9MTE_ih1Okguq1w%3BFeag5gAddWlOBilLNIX9tvgUMTEQQ9lan18QuQ&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=Pakse&amp;sll=17.373563,104.64879&amp;sspn=2.563408,5.410767&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=16.467695,105.435791&amp;spn=4.2134,5.273437&amp;z=7&amp;output=embed\"><\/iframe><br \/><small><a href=\"https:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Kong+Lor+Cave,+Khammouane,+Laos&amp;daddr=Thakh%C3%A8k,+Khammouane,+Laos+to:Savannakhet,+Laos+to:Pakse,+Champassack,+Laos&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FcL-EQEdM4Y-BiG4pts60Nl4gSkZ2QV-BsQ7MTG4pts60Nl4gQ%3BFSWqCQEdjps_BimdCQjrvAg8MTHCe8zJGKAwpg%3BFROy_AAd-k8-BilTk13m4MU9MTE_ih1Okguq1w%3BFeag5gAddWlOBilLNIX9tvgUMTEQQ9lan18QuQ&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=Pakse&amp;sll=17.373563,104.64879&amp;sspn=2.563408,5.410767&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=16.467695,105.435791&amp;spn=4.2134,5.273437&amp;z=7\" style=\"color:#0000FF;text-align:left\">View Larger Map<\/a><\/small><em><br \/>\nNa poti proti jugu Laosa: (A) Ban Kong Lo, (B) Tha Khek, (C) Savannakhet in (D) Pakse<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Za \u0161tiri dni sva najela polavtomatski 100cc motor\u010di\u010d, od prtljage vzela samo najnujnej\u0161e, in se odpeljala na ve\u010ddnevni <em>giro <\/em>okoli masivne <strong>planote Bolaven<\/strong> in \u010deznjo. Vo\u017enja, z izjemo enega odseka, ni predstavljala ni\u010d stra\u0161no zahtevnega. Ve\u010dji del poti je potekal po dobro asfaltiranih cestah, kjer je bilo prometa minimalno. Tudi kakih orientacijskih in logisti\u010dnih zapletov ni bilo, saj je tura dokaj dobro dokumentirana v popotni\u0161kih vodi\u010dih in ogla\u0161evana v Pakse-ju ter tako posledi\u010dno \u017ee ne\u0161tetokrat zvo\u017eena. Se pa vseeno \u0161tevilo <em>falangov<\/em>, ki jih sre\u010da\u0161 na poti, ko enkrat zapusti\u0161 popularno popotni\u0161ko \u00bbchill-out\u00ab vasico <strong>Tad Lo<\/strong> (drugi dan ture) in odrine\u0161 naprej proti vzhodu, skr\u010di le na pe\u0161\u010dico in je tako ob\u010dutek bla\u017eene osame v teh krajih enkraten. Mimogrede spozna\u0161 kako ekstati\u010dno ekipo otrok, prijaznega (po mo\u017enosti naklanega) kmeta ali budisti\u010dnega meniha. Pokrajina ne ponudi ni\u010d blazno spektakularnega, povsod polja, pa\u0161niki in planta\u017ee (predvsem nasadi kave), je pa na poti ogromno slapov, pri katerih se lahko ustavi\u0161 in pohenga\u0161. Nekateri med njimi so prav noro fotogeni\u010dni.<\/p>\n<p>Tura je bila u\u017eivancija, a <em>all-in-all <\/em>vseeno kar naporna. Prakti\u010dno celodnevna vo\u017enja na motorju na \u017ego\u010dem soncu ti pobere dober del energije, sploh pa je bil tretji dan naporen, ko sva z glavne ceste zavila na makadam, ki vodi \u010dez planoto. Ta del poti je bil po\u0161ten izziv za Igorjeve (ne)izku\u0161nje vo\u017enje z motorjem. Totalno zjebana cesta, na momente polna globokega peska in ponekod tudi z velikimi nakloni (na mapci ozna\u010deno z oran\u017eno\/rjavo). Hehe, kva sva se matrala. In po\u017eirala prah! Enkrat sva celo telebnila, ko sva pri hitrosti 50 km\/h z dobro utrjenega makadama kar naenkrat zapeljala v enega izmed \u00bbpeskovnikov\u00ab sredi ceste in izgubila kontrolo nad motorjem. Na sre\u010do sva padla na pesku in tako fasala samo nekaj prask (motor je bil OK). Ampak a vidi\u0161, tudi nama se je zgodilo! In ko sva dan zaklju\u010dila v mestecu <strong>Paksong<\/strong>, sva bila totalno usrana od prahu in blata. Prav prekrita sva bila s sloji umazanije, bljak.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5463\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5463\" style=\"width: 450px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/arhiv.svetovno.si\/media\/website\/random-pics\/Bolaven-plateau-motorbike-giro_.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/arhiv.svetovno.si\/media\/website\/random-pics\/Bolaven-plateau-motorbike-giro_-450x359.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"_potek ture okoli planote Bolaven in \u010deznjo (picture borrowed from pgdsj.blogspot.com)_\" width=\"450\" height=\"359\" class=\"size-large wp-image-5463\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5463\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">potek ture okoli planote Bolaven in \u010deznjo (picture borrowed from pgdsj.blogspot.com)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Zadnji dan je vo\u017enja potekala <em>smooth<\/em>, zato sva nazaj v Pakse prispela zgodaj, in se zapeljala \u0161e v 30km oddaljeni <strong>Champasak<\/strong>, kjer sva si ogledala ostanke zanimivega templja iz 11. do 13. stoletja, ki so ga zgradili starodavni Kmeri. Celoten kompleks je v precej slabem stanju, a vsebuje dovolj zanimivih dokaj dobro ohranjenih detajlov, zaradi katerih sva pre\u017eivela tam kar nekaj ur. Obisk templja je bila super popotnica za vsa zgodovinsko-arhitekturna \u010dudesa, ki sva jih kasneje videla v Kambod\u017ei\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Aja, obstajajo tudi druge, malo manj preizku\u0161ene, manj zvo\u017eene in definitivno bolj avanturisti\u010dne poti okoli planote Bolaven. Ko smo bivali v vasici Ban Kong Lo (glej prej\u0161nji post), smo spoznali nekega Grka, ki je potoval po celotnem Laosu na svojem spodobnem motokros motor\u010di\u010du. Ob pribli\u017eno istem \u010dasu kot midva z Ireno, se je tudi on podal na roadtrip okoli planote, vendar po bolj \u00bbindirektnih\u00ab \u0161purah. Nekaj dni po tem, ko sva se vrnila v Pakse, sva na njegovem Facebook profilu zasledila tole pripoved\u2026<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Drove by motorbike Attapeu &#8211; Pakse (Laos) through the forests south of the Bolavens plateau. Thought I was gonna make it in 1 day.<\/p>\n<p>Day 1: After driving 8 hours, got lost and had to sleep in a wooden hut at a village near the Cambodia border.<\/p>\n<p>Day 2: Drove another 8 hours. Bike got stuck in the mud HARD (knee deep) twice which short circuited most of the controls. I had no more strength left to take the bike out of the mud, luckily one man was returning from work with his 3 sons (on SCOOTERS) and helped me. My bike was so muddy I would slip in every uphill dirt road. In the end they helped me all the way to their village and even let me sleep at their home (wooden 2 story house).<\/p>\n<p>Day 3: I left my camera and the start of a huge river crossing to film my (successful) crossing. When I came back by foot the camera was gone. Only 4 children were swimming by the river while I crossed it but they would pretend to be innocent. Went to some villagers nearby and explained it with gestures (nobody speaks English in the countryside). In the end the whole village was getting involved. After them &#8216;interrogating&#8217; the children for 5 (no joke) hours they confessed they dropped the camera (INCLUDING ALL OF MY AWESOME PICTURES FUUUUUHNNN) in the river. Continued to Pakse. Only 5km before I made it to the main road, the lights went out and it was dar already. Crashed the bike big time with 25 km\/h when the road became suddenly rocky. Pants torn, mobile phone shattered, big wound on knee. Fixed the bike so it would at least start again. Some trucker found me and used his lights for me to drive ahead to the next guesthouse. Guest house owner let me stay for free cause I had no more cash.<\/p>\n<p>Day 4: 50 km paved road to Pakse (drove like a pussy) and getting the bike repaired. <\/p>\n<p>I am fine btw. Very mixed feelings.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ju\u017eni del Laosa je razvle\u010den vzdol\u017e reke Mekong na eni strani, in hribi, ki mejijo na Vietnam, na drugi. Vmes je svet relativno nizek in bistveno bolj raven kot na severu. Ta del Laosa se zdi tudi bolj poseljen, in vzdol\u017e glavne magistralke, ki se ob Mekongu vije dol proti jugu, je nanizanih cel kup [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5443,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[36,64,19,28],"tags":[54,52],"class_list":["post-5424","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-akcija","category-laos","category-skljoc-skljoc","category-vandranje","tag-podezelje","tag-roadtrippin"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5424","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5424"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5424\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5424"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5424"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.svetovno.si\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5424"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}